The Missouri State Penitentiary opened in 1836, ten years after the legislature first met in Jefferson City, and held prisoners until 2004. For most of that time it was one of the largest prisons in the country, and in 1967 a magazine called it "the bloodiest 47 acres in America". When the inmates moved to a new prison outside town, the old one stood empty. Today its stone walls and cell blocks are open to visitors on guided tours.
What the tours cover
All visits are guided; you cannot wander the site alone. The standard history tour walks through several housing units, the yard and the gas chamber, and the guides tell the prison's story from its first years to its last. Several guides worked inside as officers, and their stories are the best part of the visit.
There are also longer tours for photographers and, for those who want them, evening ghost tours. The tours run seasonally, from spring to fall, and the popular slots fill early, so book before you travel rather than on the day.
A few names you will hear
- James Earl Ray escaped from the prison in 1967 by hiding in a bread delivery truck. A year later he assassinated Martin Luther King Jr.
- Sonny Liston learned to box while serving time here, and went on to become heavyweight champion of the world.
- The 1954 riot left inmates dead and several buildings burned, and led to reforms across the state's prisons.
Planning the visit
- Time. The history tour takes about two hours; allow three with the walk there and back.
- What to wear. Closed shoes. Floors are uneven, there are stairs, and the cell blocks are cold in spring and hot in summer.
- Getting there. The prison is on the east side of downtown, about a mile from the Capitol. You can walk it, or drive and park on site.
- Children. The subject matter is grim and some areas are dark. Check the age guidance when you book.
The penitentiary pairs well with a morning at the Capitol, and the one-day plan puts the tour in the afternoon for that reason. In summer, book the earliest tour you can and save the Capitol for the heat of the day: the Capitol has air conditioning, the prison does not. The seasons page has more on timing.